Runways and Revolutions
Throughout history, pivotal events have shaped the lives and minds of all impacted. During times of hardship and turmoil, self-expression becomes vital to aid peace of mind and convey suppressed emotion. As history remains ceaseless, artistic expression is sought through new forms. Fashion has unfailingly become the most alluring expression by accessibility and direct representation. And by wearing it on your body, it becomes a piece of your individuality. As various monumental eras pass, the wardrobe choices invoke the story of each historical event and an inside view of what was being experienced mentally and economically during each grievance given.
As the Great War rose, fashion drastically fluctuated from the Belle Époque period, a time of beauty, voicing cultural preservation, and elegance, to economic success, quickly interchanged with the war. Practical and noble clothing began to trend for women as more job opportunities became available to them, working to aid the war. Most men at the time were seen in their battle garments of army green and brass buttons. The practicality of the time portrays how society conforms to unforeseen circumstances to unite as a whole and generally become more pragmatic and resourceful.
Once World War 1 ended, liberty and new beginnings rose during the Jazz Era. Women had just earned the right to vote while the economy was flourishing in the Roaring '20s. As a result, cocktail dresses gained popularity, presenting a more relaxed style. We see less form-fitted corsets and more shortened hemlines, dropped waistlines, and decorative detail; people dressed like this were known as flappers. The flapper lifestyle was a modern concept, rejecting Victorian culture. They spent their days in a jazz club, relaxing by engaging in celebratory activities reflecting the joyous times of success and women's new identity in society. The growing infatuation with gangster culture heavily influenced men's fashion at the time. Stiffly boxed suits were no longer as popular, replaced with fitted suit coats and cuffed pants. This era refrained from societal norms, experimenting with new lifestyles and trends, while being an enlightening time for those dealing with loss after the war.
During an economic downturn, the Great Depression left millions of people unemployed, leading to bank failures, stock market crashes, trade issues, and a disparity in money. Due to this crisis, no luxurious items were being produced at the time, and people were fortunate if they could afford to get hold of necessities. In 1929, the stock market crash caused the fashion industry to shift, dresses became looser and longer, yet silhouetted flatteringly at the waist to give a natural, effortless appearance. It is believed a more fairytale, feminine, Hollywood-inspired style comes into trend with efforts to reject the hardship of the Great Depression and as an attempt to find happiness in the midst of crisis. The fashion during this time period was used as an escape from reality and a moment to refrain from reality to have a moment of peace within yourself.
The end to the Great Depression was quickly interchanged with World War 2. A time of fear, hopelessness, inconsistency, uncertainty, fear, and rationing was reflected on the fashion being photographed at the time while a plethora of everywhere was in war. We see sustainable pieces from the time made out of what was available in each country and given out for the time being. Resources were being utilized in ways they hadn't been before, functionality becoming the key factor. Women's style also becomes more modest, with tailored dresses and lowered hemlines. In a time as unpredictable as this, something that people could have control over, their clothing, had remained predictable and straightforward as a reflection of everything the war wasn't. This freedom was quickly abused in Germany as the Star of David Patch was sewn onto the sleeves of the Jewish population. This was a tactic of fear and shame, labeling humans to make them feel subordinate. We see fashion during WW2 dull down partially because of emotional absence, but also because of preoccupation.
The Twin Towers were hit on the fourth day of New York Fashion Week, once the 9 am show had just started. The Y2K style was mainly elevated then; clothing revealed new technological advancements, and the internet rose. Immediately after the attacks, the press demanded considerate and uncontroversial pieces on the runway. There was new pressure not to be "too much" and remain sensitive for now. "Cheap Chic" became a growing trend, prioritizing affordable items and the rise of fast fashion. A campaign was started shortly after, called "Fashion for America", where a white T-shirt with a heart-shaped American flag stitched on was sold around New York for $22.50 in hopes of pitching in for the Twin Towers Fund. While the attack had affected the economy severely, it had changed all designers' perspectives on business and resilience. This later affects the industry when we see more tragedy, charity, and awareness lines being produced. In a devastating time like 9/11, the fashion industry and culture mirror how communities support each other, and emotions are being felt deeply throughout the community.
Fashion's fluctuation as each historical period passes is a gift. While the uncertainty of the time is uncomfortable, it opens a chance to experiment and express with clothing. When this is done throughout history, it can give a better understanding of each time period and what life was like then. We see emotional and economic alterations impacting the human brain and lifestyle. Fashion continues to evolve and reflect the time we are living in. We have the privilege to wear clothing that shows our culture and stories, ideas, values, impressions, and inner thoughts because history has invoked new fashion culture so dramatically in the past hundreds of years.
- Isabel (Izzy) Regalado
Information from:
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